He wont let me leave until hes certain that I fully appreciate his lifes work. The rooms are spacious, modern, clean, and full of little perks like complimentary bottle of wine, in-wall USB chargers, and even an Amazon Alexa. My boyfriend and I will be traveling to Montepulciano in Oct 2010. If car rentals are closed on Sunday then we may need a private transfer. (30:51). Italians know this area as the Val d'Orcia. Today Im tasting some of the regions great wines in romantic hill towns. Once again, I bought a magnificent pot that sits on my stove and I use several times every week. (Also, the lovely owners provide a parking pass that allows you to park your car in the street right by the apartments.) I especially enjoyed the mosaic artist who works near his front door doing beautiful street and landscape scenes in fine mosaic glass. This is a massive and incredible operation. You may notice "sentinel" roses at the ends of some of the rows of vines. Quite honestly, the only time we ever used a tour was to skip the line to see sights. For Cesare, every day is show-and-tell, as steady streams of travelers with my Florence & Tuscany guidebook drop by to see him work, stroke his beautiful ego, and say hi. We're spending about 5 days in Siena in June, and will probably spend at least one, maybe two, of those days visiting another town in the area, possibly Montepulciano. On Day 10, take the early bus from Montalcino to Volterra (transfer in Siena). thank you all, really looking forward to looking into these. BTW I am sipping a glass of this lovely wine right now! When a steak is ordered, Giulio walks up the seven steps at the back of the restaurant to his busy open kitchen. It's not just the landscape. To help you get started, we've listed our top picks for where to go in Tuscany, and our plan for your best two-week trip. They are just outside of the city center of Montepulciano, but only about a 5 minute drive. Mines Montepulciano. But one thing thats always on the menu is steak. Each cask is an old friend. (photo: Rick Steves) 98 Reviews Badge of Excellence Montepulciano, Italy Save to Wishlist From $31.06 Lowest Price Guarantee Select Date and Travelers Check Availability Reserve Now & Pay Later Secure your spot while staying flexible Free cancellation Up to 24 hours in advance. This restaurant is teeny, tiny so definitely make reservations well in advance. Restaurants all of the below source their food locally: Osteria Porta di Bacco (https://www.portadibacco.it/en) Excellent restaurant just inside the main entrance to Montepulciano. Cesare makes it look easy to coat a frying pan with tin. My absolute favorite (besides all of them) is their toasted pistachioamazing!!! Richard John Steves Jr. (born May 10, 1955), known professionally as Rick Steves, is an American travel writer, author, activist, and television personality. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | About 3 miles from the city. I downloaded the form for the drivers license but I havent filled it out yet, Ive been stuck inside because of the virus. Enter dates to see prices. The countryside around Montalcino is dotted with classy wineries that are evangelical about taking visitors on tours and tastings. These 2 places are just a mile or so outside of Montepulciano. One other suggestion I wanted to add be sure to check out Sgarbi Gelato! It costs $20 and is good for 1 year. Hes a tall, balding, lanky artist of a butcher with a pencil sticking out of his gray ponytail. :" I hope to visit this area in the next few years and see the gardens at La Foce. One was hiring a guide by the hour for an individual tour. For one thing, its fun to say: Mon-tay-pool-chee-AH-noh. The Contucci Winery in Montepulciano, Italy, welcomes visitors to appreciate their wine and how it's. Sandy & Phil Ferretti welcome you to their villa as friends not guests. Terms of Service | Privacy, Florence & Tuscany: Recommended Books and Movies, Assisi and Italian Country Charm (episode), Florence: Heart of the Renaissance (episode), Florentine Delights and Tuscan Side-Trips (episode), Renaissance Art and Architecture in Florence (clip), Siena and Tuscanys Wine Country (episode), Travel Talks: Hill Towns of Tuscany & Umbria, Florences Accademia: The Temple of David, Italy Connoisseurs Choose Leisurely Lucca, Sienas Palio: 500 Years of History in 90 Seconds, Tuscanys Powerful, Towerful San Gimignano, Volterra and San Gimignano: Hill Towns with a Twist, Pleasures of Italian Cuisine Thanks! While he has a shop around the corner (Rameria Mazzetti), its clear that Cesare is not in this for the money. Thank you! We appreciate your recommendations. He officially retired 20 years ago, he says, but they still let him come to work every day. Today the roses can warn of mildew. Travel Explore Tuscany's world-class wines Rick Steves Jan. 29, 2016 1 of 3 The countryside around Montalcino is dotted with vibrant vineyards that seem to roll to infinity. Just as his neighbors have devoted their lives to one thing, Giulios calling is grilling the perfect steak. But, if the tour guide can offer something different that you cant find on your own, then it might be an option. This is crazy that two forum members already have reservations at our favorite place to stay in Montepulciano! The trains do however run from La Spezia to Rome Posted by carmenhoffman79 OP 03/28/23 01:49 PM 8 posts Thank you so much! We have visited almost every month of the year, and there is always some event or festival to enjoy. We are staying at Mueble III Riccio as we watched the video from Rick Steves. Hotel Duomo: http://albergoduomomontepulciano.it/?lang=en. For 50 years, Adamo has made sure visitors enjoy a tasty education in the Nobile di Montepulciano. Then he hacks the clinging sinews with a giant cleaver. These are places that we have discovered and been going to for years: Accommodations: Definitely a 5 star property. Good restaurants don't open for dinner before 19:00. Thanks, TJ. He lays a copper circle onto his anvil, and methodically arranges his antique hammers. I have been travelling to Italy for over 60 years and mostly stayed in larger cities, but decided I wanted a place to take it easy and slow. La Grotta (http://www.lagrottamontepulciano.it/intro.php) This is a fantastic restaurant that does everything right. We appreciate the time you have taken to assist us. Rick Steves: Rome is magic after dark. We love to get lost and see what we discover. He told me how his grandfather always said, in the local dialect, "The mouth cannot be finished until it smells of cows." Everything else has been mapped out. The only trouble Im having is getting to Montepulciano. Id like to spend about a week there, but Im wondering how necessary it will be to rent a car. Unlike Californians wineries, here in Tuscany you need to telephone the day before to book your tours. (11:50), Seasons of Italy: Fred Plotkin De Ricci (https://www.cantinadericci.it/) Located in the historic center, this place is wonderful. Please do not reply to violations of our Community Guidelines. They are very kind and never pressure you to purchase any of their wonderful winesbut you will want to! As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, Im reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Any suggestions for Florence? Memorable experience we will never forget. Google montorio.com or see it in Air bnb. His travel philosophy encourages people to explore less-touristy areas of destinations and to become immersed in the local people's way of life. Allow more time in your itinerary bus service is spotty on weekends. Places Florence Lucca Pisa Siena Tuscan Hill Towns At a Glance Plan Photos Watch Read Listen Latest Tuscany Travel Forum Posts Located in the main fortress at the very top of Montepulciano, you can taste over 100 different labels of locally produced wines. He slaps the five-pound T-bone on a sheet of paper, descends the stairs, and shows it to the customer. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the train system before you go, as presumably you'll be using the train for other legs of this journey. ping!" He'd then dance back to the inferno and cook the slab: seven minutes on one side, seven on the other. Learn more 1 hour (approx.) He stoked his fire and pounded away, before finishing his top-end copper pans with a lining of tin. They have one and two bedroom units that are very spacious. Agriturismo Merigge. We have our picture with him, toured his little museum, and then realized that he is last of his line. Back up the stairs, the steak goes on the grill, pushed deep into a wood-fired oven: five minutes on one side, five minutes on the other, then sprinkled with coarse salt. I called the owners of a few places and ultimately decided on Fonte Martino after speaking with them. Steep, twisty, cobbled lanes clamber up through an ancient, stony cityscape draped over a ridge. Ntagg35, you will have a wonderful time with the hosts at Fonte Martino. And there we filmed the venerable coppersmith, Cesare, hard at work. As a little background, we have been travelling to Montepulciano at least once a year (sometimes more) since 2013/14. At the Santa Giulia farm were enjoying a Zero Kilometer Lunch everything made right on the farm: bread, olive oil, cheese, prosciutto, and wine. View the gallery Your home away from home. A few steps farther down the same street, I step into a lively restaurant: Osteria dellAcquacheta. Just search your specific dates on the Trenitalia website--I see trains on a random Sunday. Thanks. Show prices. For emphasis, he periodically reaches out and excitedly grips my arm. Mueble III Riccio is lovely and does offer parking- parking is outside the walls I believe. Steep, twisty, cobbled lanes clamber up through an ancient, stony cityscape draped over a ridge. We are going to stay at Agriturismo Nobile. We are 3 couples and plan on staying for 4 days. Frank, we were there in October 2017 and he was still going strong. Locals eat better at lower-rent locales. Its dinnertime, and its packed. The wine is almost a religion here, and it seems that guides walk you worshipfully through cellars as if they were sacred spaces. A big reason for visiting Tuscany is to not just sample the great local wine, but to have it served to you by the families who make it. At that magic moment, it becomes a race between the boars and the human harvesters. Italy's no-smoking rules are working, but they've caused some bars to stop serving drinks earlier than before the ban went into effect. These are apartments located in town. My husband and I are taking our first trip to Italy the end of April. Tours last an hour, cost about 10, and finish in a tasting room like this where, with expert guidance, youll development a better appreciation of the fruit of these vines. Farmhouse. There is limited taxi service there, but most times it must be pre-scheduled. Thank you! Only need transportation to Montepulciano. This region in the heart of Italy is chock-full of great wineries, but I like to focus on two well-respected red wines, each centered on a specific town: Montepulciano is known for its Vino Nobile, and Montalcino is famous for its Brunello. Montepulciano is my favorite town of the top wine-making region of Tuscany. Your caution about walking from the public parking lot to a city apartment is well taken. It makes me so happy you like my suggestions and I really appreciate the additional suggestions. Everyone touring this area seems to be relaxed and in an easy grooveas if enjoying a little wine buzz. Like a blacksmith in hell, Giulio a lanky man in a T-shirt hacked at the beef with a cleaver, lopping off a steak every few minutes. When I traveled to/from Montepulciano, I took the train to the Chiusi-chianciano station and caught a bus there to Montepulciano. Our hosts brought our bags to the apartment when we checked in but on our daily excursions we had a bit of a hike. I also presume you have a car. Try Palazzo Bellarmine. Posted by steve. 1.54M subscribers More info about travel to Tuscany: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/ita. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. Montepulciano just has so much to offer and even though we have been coming the past couple of years, there is always something new and amazing! Their dishes are very creative and very showy without being pretentious at all. It is people-to-people moments like this that distinguish a good trip. Went last week, he wasn't there. 5 min walk to Montepulciano. Made from 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso grapes, it's smooth, dry, and aged for a minimum of two years in oak casks, plus an additional four months in the bottle. Wandering around, we heard a distinctive "ping! Where Do You Find the Wow in Your Travels? A little goes a long way and in Italy driving buzzed is serious. Montepulciano is my favorite town of the top wine-making region of Tuscany. With the help of my guide Roberto Bechi, Cesare explained how copper transmits heat but, to be safe for cooking, you need to line it with tin. And about 15 minutes later, you got your steak. beautiful. Unfortunately we ran out of time. Two things that stood out for me: staying at the Politian Apartments each time, near the "top" of town. Be sure to have a designated driver because they do not pour lightly and do pour frequently! Hard to beat the Locanda San Francesco, at the end of Via Ricci, just up from the Piazza Grande; next to the exit road. Gene Openshaw is the co-author of the Rick Steves Florence & Tuscany guidebook. You will have a great time in a beautiful area. We'll bring a GPS. And Ive been checking in on him for over a decade. Tours last an hour, cost about $1015, and finish in a tasting room where, with expert guidance, you'll develop a better appreciation for the fruit of these vines. Was nice to stay right in the town. In a kind of mouth-watering tango, he pranced past the boisterous tables of customers, holding a raw slab of beef on butcher's paper like a tray of drinks. I too will be in Montepulciano this summer. Montepulciano is now another addition on my summer Get There list. Benjamin Franklin once wrote, "Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy." It is with great sadness that I announce that this amazing little clip of a wonderful artisan - and a charming man - won't be in our upcoming show on Tuscany. Terms of Service | Privacy. Their tasting room has a glass floor with Etruscan ruins lit up underneath. Vegetarians wont enjoy this restaurant. The term agriturismo can only be used by a rural B&B on an actual working farm. Is the best way to get there by renting a car or is there any other way? Spraying me with rapid-fire Italian, Adamo explains that hes been making wine here since he was in short pants. If you're still looking for a place to stay, you might consider vrbo.com or airbnb.com. So, let me know your thoughts. There is no better place in the world to confirm what Ben said than in Tuscany. Another option would be to stay in Florence and just take day trips out into the countryside. To be Brunello, the wine spends several years in a wood barrel like these. I'm going to be in an agriturismo just outside of Pienza for four nights in May so I am definitely bookmarking this. Beyond beautiful views. Camere Bella Vista : https://www.camerebellavista.it/en/ The apartments are spacious, beautiful, with lots of light, and windows looking out over the valley. They tent to hold true to traditional recipes, but add a bit of a twist to reinvent them. Thanks much! The countryside around Montalcino is dotted with classy wineries that are evangelical about taking visitors on tours and tastings. 02/17/10 07:17 AM. Strolling just a hundred yards along this main drag, I drop in on three different craftsmen each one with a fierce passion for doing just one thing, and doing it better than anyone. Montepulciano Rugged town crowning a ridge, with dreamy vistas of the countryside and wine-tasting in inviting cantinas; makes a good home base for drivers. here is here web site: http://www.villapoggiano.com/en/# Lucca Charming town with a lively (and flat) center full of pleasant cafs and shops, ringed by intact Renaissance walls wide enough for biking and strolling. There is also a local artist who has her own gallery on the main street. At the Contucci cellar, your host is the lively Adamo. One very big exception would be La Fonte. They are self catering apartments literally a 2 minute walk from the duomo at the top of the hill. I will have a driver, so please if you are driving, watch your wine consumption. And watch out for the "phantom Mercedes, and Audi, and BMW" when you are in the left lane on the freeway. *If you'd prefer beach time to more time in well-touristed villages, head to Elba from Montepulciano and spend two nights on the island rather than in Volterra. Osteria Acquacheta 4,118 reviews Closed Now Italian, Steakhouse $$ - $$$ Menu Amazing steak, food, and wine experience. As far as organized tours, both in Florence as well as the Tuscan countryside, what are your recommendations? What a great resource you have contributed. Theres a correct way: seven minutes on each side. He showed us the pan he first made as a 12-year-old boy in 1948. . Every few seconds the happy sound of George Carlin slamming his cleaver through the beef rockets through the room stoking every appetite under that old, brick-domed ceiling. Italian vintners understand that North Americans can't take much wine with them, and they don't expect to make a big sale, but they do hope you'll look for their wines back home. Does anyone have any recommendations on places to visit? Be sure to keep this one on your bucket list simply beautiful!!! ETA--Never mind now I see you are heading to Rome on Sunday. https://www.wanderingitaly.com/maps/valdorcia.html. After our vespa adventure, we got ready for a dinner we were all super excited about in the town of Montepulciano. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com. We loved Montepulciano and that B&B. (photo: Rick Steves) The countryside around Montalcino is dotted with vibrant vineyards that seem to roll to infinity. Thank you, TJ, for this helpful information about Montepulciano. Go see the coppersmith in Montepulciano and tell me if he is still alive. "Heart of Tuscany" is my nickname for the corridor connecting the hill towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino, plus a few little side-trips within about a 30-minute drive of that spine. Flickering in front of the flames was a gurney, upon which lay a huge hunk of beef. A room with a Tuscan view like this is standard here. Have you looked on Trenitalia Locals are really into the "marriage" of correct foods. It is owned by 2 super nice and welcoming Americans and opened last year after an extensive renovation. But Francescos talk was so good (as were the wines he featured), I stayed for the entire presentation (munching perfectly matched prosciutto and cheese with the wines to call it dinner). coming from inside a nondescript doorway and peeked in. Whether its steak, copper, or wine, theres something so inspiring about people who are completely devoted to their lifes work. Sorry to be wishy-washy, but it really depends on how you want to spend your vacation. I hope readers can appreciate the deep benefits of getting to know an area as you have versus the superficiality of a bucket list. This was just one of fifty groups of ours that Francesco will join for a tasty, educational, and memorable Tuscan evening this year. We are staying at Fonte Martino for five nights, as our home base, to explore the Tuscany countryside. The key grape in each is the Sangiovese variety. Did you find any particular wine tour in Europe exceptional? Stan & Janet. Montepulciano is renowned for its well-preserved medieval and Renaissance architecture, romantic nooks, and sun-bleached sandstone courtyards that offer panoramic views of the rolling Tuscan hills. Tuning In to Tasty Italy By Rick Steves The chef at this Tuscan restaurant doubles as a butcher he cuts the steak before he grills it. Home / Blog; Posted on April 27, 2016 January 4, 2018 by . Our highlights were Assisi, Ricks' ultimate hill town of Civita, Montalcino, and Montepulciano itself. Another shout out to visit the amazing coppersmith Cesare Mazzetti. In a stony cellar, under one long, tough vault, I joined a local crowd for dinner. https://www.trenitalia.com/en.html. Or, you can schedule in advance The Grand Experience. Like Adamo, he needs no English to convey his devotion to his craft. He showed us the pan he first made as a 12-year-old boy in 1948. i am staying at Politian and am now really hoping to met Cesare at his shop. Osteria dell Aquacheta brings out the carnivore in all its guests. I've stayed there twice: lovely, well-located apartments; great people run them; spacious and comfortable. It will take you all of the way up to Piazza Grande at the top of the steep hill. He only spoke Italian, but after showing us lots of baby photos from those past visitors and hearing him use the term "frisky-frisky" a few times as he winked at us, it became clear that those disks are made for a specific purpose. gaston, oregon, usa. Share your itinerary so we can make suggestions of where and when to get the car. Valley views from every room. Honestly speaking, driving in Italy is not as big of a deal as it may seem. At the Contucci cellar, your host is the lively Adamo. Rick Steves' Europe 1.65M subscribers Subscribe 1.2K Share 202K views 6 years ago #ricksteveseurope #ricksteves #montepulciano The Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano, Italy, is a. Its most famous product Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ("noble wine of Montepulciano") is a high-quality, dry, ruby-red wine made of at least 70 percent Sangiovese grapes. It pairs well with meat, especially roasted lamb with rosemary, rabbit or boar ragout over pasta, grilled portobello mushrooms, and local cheeses like pecorino. Your email address will not be published. Venture beyond the fringes of Florence and you'll find a series of sun- and wine-soaked villages, each with its own appeal. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 . Very clean, whimsically decorated, and spacious. He pulls out a set of tools that he inherited from his father, who inherited them from his father, and so on, dating back to 1857. On a recent visit to Tuscany, a region fiercely proud of its beef, I sunk my teeth into a carnivore's dream come true. 05/05/08 06:15 AM 192 posts We stayed near Bucine for a couple of weeks last September (about 45 minutes from Montepulciano) and we headed down the road alot of days and just stopped at towns we came upon. We just had a very nice stay at Dimora dell' Erbe right in the center of Montepulciano on Piazza Erbe. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. Although there are rental places in some towns near the train stations, we got burned a few times because of their limited hours. 14175 posts Montepulciano is super popular with Rick Steves' followers so the places suggested by RS are likely to be booked quickly. Stretching from the Umbrian border to the Ligurian Sea, the landscape changes from pastoral (Crete Senesi) to rocky (Chianti) to mountainous (the Montagnola) to flat and brushed with sea breezes (Pisa). Pienza is very close to Montepulciano as is Montalcino. Large updated room and bathroom. Keep the suggestions coming. Unlike Californians wineries, here in Tuscany you need to book your tours (its a simply phone call the day before). This is not usually an issue, but can be cumbersome if you have a lot of luggage. Now that bars have to be smoke-free, young drinkers who want a cigarette take their drinks outside. And the good life seems, like the cuisine, simple. There, a giant slab of beef rests on a butcher block. Encountering a Consummate . Which town in the Cinque Terre do you need transportation from to go to Montipulciano? Without a car, modify our suggested itinerary like this: On Day 7, bus from Siena to Montalcino (stay there three nights). The grapes are grown in the surrounding hillsides, but its here, in a deep warren of cellars, that they become Vino Nobile. I am looking for a place to stay in Montepulciano for 3 couples from Sept. 24-27, 2018. Depending on the length of your trip, and taking geographic proximity into account, here are our recommended priorities: Day 1: Arrive in Florence (sleep in Florence), Day 5: Bus to Siena (1.5 hours; sleep in Siena), Day 7: Rent car, drive Crete Senesi route to Montepulciano (sleep in Montepulciano), Day 8: Follow our guidebook's "Heart of Tuscany Drive," with a stop in Pienza (sleep in Montepulciano), Day 9: Follow our guidebook's "Brunello Wine Country Drive" (sleep in Montepulciano), Day 10: Head to San Gimignano for a short stop, then Volterra (sleep in Volterra)*, Day 12: Drive to Lucca, drop off car, enjoy Lucca (sleep in Lucca), Day 13: Day-trip to Pisa by bus (sleep in Lucca). Excited to demonstrate the heat-conducing properties of his favorite medium, Cesare instructs me to crouch down so he can place a copper bell over my head. The rest of June features a destination duel between Prague and Budapest, a discussion of teens of color abroad, and Japan.. The location offers salted water . Jmauldinuu, we are very familiar with the hills of Montepulciano! One of the best places we have stayed in Europe. In the summer, they grow most of the produce they serve during their amazing breakfasts. I can actually feel the sound waves radiating all around me, warming up the top of my head. On International Womens Day, Celebrating the Ultimate Woman Traveler: Alma Karlin (1889-1950). Mine's Montepulciano. We would like to stay in town for about $150 or less a night (for four nights). A modern B&B with 2 easy flights to get to. You can feel the authenticity this town represents as it is on the verge of being discovered as a destination. Finally, Adamo pops a cork and pours a sample in my glass. Carmen, please share your complete itinerary and make clear what you are asking. He pulls up a chair at each table and talks the customers through their options. They just opened this past year too and their gelato is some of the best I have ever had. May 18, 2015 by Rick Steves Enjoying Steak Dinner at Osteria dell' Aquacheta High-intensity travel makes me hungry especially in Italy. Plan on using a mix of trains and buses, as not all hill towns have rail service. Beware of cheap eateries that sport big color photos of pizza and piles of different pastas. For 50 years, Adamo has made sure visitors enjoy a tasty education in the Nobile di Montepulciano. You can privately message me if you want more into. Hope this helps. The owner is from Argentina and is also really nice. Her name is Jennifer and she has an amazing talent. Fixing me with an intense but caring gaze, Adamo explains that a good wine has three essential qualities. Fonte Martino (https://www.fontemartino.com/) This is our number one place to stay. For the next 45 minutes, he acted like we were the only people that mattered, showing us around his shop, demonstrating a bit of his craft, and custom making little commemorative copper disks for us to keep.
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